Yves Saint Lauren

2206 mots 9 pages
Who? The Pierre Bergé Foundation have dedicated their 15th exhibition to Yves Saint Laurent’s ready-to-wear line, Rive Gauche. The line which saw the late designer make the connection between the street and Haute Couture – a link that was previously considered inconceivable by most Parisian designers of the time – and open a boutique of the same name.
What? A presentation showcasing 70 of the Parisian designer’s iconic looks. Located on avenue Marceau, the design space has been manipulated to replicate the spirit and decor of the original store which opened in 1966 on rue de Tournon.
Why? In contrast to previous exhibitions dedicated to the designer, here Pierre Bergé chooses to explore Laurent’s progressive approach to fashion, highlighting the social and political effect the brand had on women during the late 60s and 70s. His desire to glamorise everyday male pieces, such as the shirt, blazer and trouser suit reached out to the burgeoning ‘power dressing’ female work force. Laurent’s designs, including versions of the classic Le Smoking tuxedo initially caused such a stir that when women wearing his pantsuits were refused entry to restaurants they began removing them in protest. Here, Laurent succeeded in his aim to "not just to make women more beautiful but to reassure them and give them confidence." Fitting for a house which inspired such admiration and devotion in its wearers, a book entitled Saint-Laurent Rive Gauche – La Revolution has been released alongside the exhibition.

Comme l'indiquent les mots « costume » et « habit », la mode a tout d'une coutume, ou d'une habitude, à ceci près qu'elle ne valorise pas latradition, mais au contraire la nouveauté, le « moderne ». Apparu au XIXe siècle, le créateur de mode se veut un esthète, non le serviteur des codes de la bourgeoisie. De leur côté, depuis au moins les zazous, sous l'occupation allemande, les modes des adolescents s'inscrivent volontiers en rupture avec l'ordre social établi. La mode n'en a pas

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